French toast (Grand Tradition 2008) with vacca rossa, truffle & 100-year vinegar on a ceramic dish, with open kitchen behind, Frantzen

3 stars for Sweden: Restaurant Frantzén

Wow! What an experience. Restaurant Frantzén in Stockholm. Only this February, Michelin awarded 3 stars to Frantzén – a first for Sweden, and a third for the Nordic region, to join Geranium in Copenhagen and Maaemo in Oslo.

With this latest accomplishment, Björn Frantzén, head chef & founder of Frantzén, has reset the world’s culinary compass towards Sweden – a relatively underpopulated country renowned for crime drama, cool design, tech start-ups, foraging in the wild and skinny-dipping.

That day, I had walked around the city for 15 km/10 miles in the falling snow. Even the ducks had looked cold. I was hungry. Very hungry. I had made my reservation for 5.30pm. You don’t have to eat that early, but many Swedes do. Travellers from the US will feel at home.

Frantzén sits 23 guests at a time, around an L-shaped bar made of solid walnut and overlooking the kitchen, with some individual tables. That equates to 500 covers a month. With news out of the third Michelin star, around 95,500 people took to the internet to unsuccessfully try to reserve for April.

Nothing feeds the emotional appetite like scarcity; the sense of something being very special, very unique, very precious.

Casual elegance

Frantzén first opened in 2008 as Frantzén/Lindeberg on the Old Town island of Gamla Stan. It was a partnership between Björn and pastry chef Daniel Lindeberg. The restaurant took its second Michelin star in 2010. With the departure of Daniel in 2013, Björn changed the name to Restaurant Frantzén. He then closed in 2016 to prepare for last September’s opening in downtown Norrmalm, not far from the Central Station.

The new Frantzén is in the quiet street of Klara Norra kyrkogata, at No 26, a 19th-century labyrinth of a town house. The restaurant spreads up and over three floors: the ‘Living Room’, the kitchen & dining space and the reception.

The designers, Joyn Studio, look to ‘put people in the right mood’.  And they sure do. At Frantzén, it’s all about ‘casual elegance’ with a Nordic/Japanese influence.

Björn Frantzén

When I meet great chefs, I feel star struck; like when I met Virgilio Martínez of Central in Lima. It was no less so in the moment when I met Björn. He greets all the guests personally; a greeting that is genuine and sincere. Great leaders make you feel seen and listened to. Björn does just that. He radiates charisma, in an understated, Swedish way.

I wanted to take a portrait of him, but the light was set for dining rather than photography. It wasn’t in me to take a so-so photograph of a man who was all about creating the perfect experience.

Linking Swedish producers with chefs

Frantzén is the culinary star of the Björn Frantzén stable. I wanted to have a glass of natural wine and a meal at Gaston Wine Bar in Gamla Stan. My three-day visit to Stockholm, though, allowed for only a certain number of lunches and suppers, and made even more difficult when so many restaurants do not open till 5pm. The stable also includes the Flying Elk and (update) more recently Frantzén’s Kitchen in Hong Kong.

In 2011, Björn also founded Exceptionell Råvara with journalist Mattias Kroon, whose Instagram name is ‘out-to-lunch’ . The project links Swedish producers with chefs, who include Magnus Nilsson of Fäviken, half way up Sweden towards the Arctic Circle. (Update: Fäviken is due to close in December 2019.)

What is so special

The late Franca Sozzani, Editor of Vogue Italia, defined luxury as having an “exclusiveness, nearly [sic] uniqueness … because it is special.” There is only one menu at Frantzén, the fixed menu, which set me back the price of the sweater that I wanted to buy from the Acne Studios store in Norrmalmstorg street, in a building that was once home to the bank made famous for a robbery in 1973 that coined the term ‘Stockholm syndrome’.  That sweater was not unique, and is sold around the world.

Dining at Frantzén, meanwhile, is unique. Even if I go back to Frantzén, it won’t be the same – the menu would have changed, the music, the guests, and I would have changed. In any case, I would have ruined the Acne Studios sweater in the wash, like I usually do.

The open kitchen, Frantzen
In the kitchen: Björn (with a dishcloth over his shoulder) and his team. The wood fire to the left, in the background.

 

Arriving at Frantzén

Once I had pressed the buzzer and entered through the hardwood door at Klara Norra kyrkogata, No 26, I was greeted in person and by name. For this was to be a very personal experience. My gaze, meanwhile, was distracted by the dry-aged meat cabinets in the reception area. They were hung with pork from Frantzén’s own farm and quail from France.

Dry aged meat cabinets, Frantzen

I was then guided through a sliding glass door, along a dark corridor lined by two rills with floating orchids, to the lift, where the tunes of ACDC‘s Back in Black took over as I went up to the second floor – a moment on my own to reflect on how the evening might unfurl. 

The General Manager, Carl Frosterud greeted me on my arrival at the second floor, escorting me down a corridor lined with jars of pickles and conserves, past the door to the terrace it was far too cold to go outside – to arrive at the Living Room, tucked under the eves, with its log stove warming the heart as well as the room.

Carl led me to a comfy chair in front of the fire and with a view towards the open kitchen, where the chefs were preparing the appetisers.

Calm music flowed with the rhythm of the room. This was food as art, as performance, as connection between mind, body, soul.

The open kitchen in the sitting room, Frantzen

 

Appetisers by the fire

As if by magic, the appetisers started to sweep their way in, as the snow continued to fall in the darkness outside and the logs in the Frantzén fire glowed hot. The first one was a macaron of pumpkin, foie gras, orange, sea buckthorn and toasted oats, which I accompanied with a gooseberry and lilac syrup-infused fruit juice.

Savoury macaron, Frantzen
Macaron of pumpkin, foie gras, orange, sea buckthorn & toasted oats.
Yuba, on a plate with dark background, Frantzen
Yuba (tofu skin): pickled cucumber, cauliflower & glazed eel. 
'Råraka' with vandace roe from kalix on a white plate, Frantzen
‘Råraka’ (a Swedish potato pancake) with vandace (a freshwater fish native to Sweden) roe from Kalix (in the very north of Sweden, near the border with Finland).
Celeriac, preserved truffle, aged cheese in a ceramic bowl, Frantzen
Celeriac, preserved truffle & aged cheese – real comfort food.
Checking the canapes, Frantzen
Everything is done with a sense of mastery and craftsmanship.

The sommelier, Lukas, invited me to the kitchen area. He slid back a cover on the kitchen counter to reveal some of the ingredients we were going to eat that evening.

Each ingredient had a story. Many were Nordic. Some were not: like the myoga, Japanese ginger, of which only the flower buds are eaten, while Frantzén’s own-label caviar was sustainable caviar from France.

Ingredients, Frantzen
Myoga in a glass jar, Frantzen
Myoga, or Japanese ginger, used in the first course.
Caviar, Frantzen

 

A paring with Fruit juice 

A fruit-juice rather than the wine pairing seemed more Swedish to me. The chefs, working with the sommeliers, had created ten different juices,. I did not taste all of them. Each one I did blew my mind in the same way that a good wine does, with the sommelier paying as much reverence to the juices as to the wine.

Needless to say, Swedes are big drinkers of good champagne and wine. They are one of the world’s top consumers of natural wine, produced to the rhythms of the weather, the soil, the terrain … to the rhythms of nature, in short.

Looking at the wine list, I saw a few names of domaines that I knew from working with Clos Driver Wine Tours, in particular Dhondt-Grellet (at 26 years old , Adrien was named Champagne Producer of the Year 2017) and Domaine Weinbach (Alsace) to name two.

The journey continues…

The secret in life is to know when to get off your ride, as well as when to get on it. Just when the moment peaked (the time to get off), I was accompanied along the corridor, down one flight of narrow stairs to the kitchen. It was here that I was personally greeted by Björn, and then I took my seat at the end of the L-shaped bar, ready for the performance.

As I began to watch the chefs prepare our meal, their synchronisation started to mesmerise me, to the beat of the music. I last recalled such a synchronisation between  the Kodo drummers from Japan who had performed in London the year before.

The 3-star menu begins… with fish 

Crudo, Frantzen
Crudo (above): bluefin tuna (caught off the Spanish coast) ‘otoro’ (the most desired part of the tuna belly; prized for sushi), purple radish, myoga (Japanese ginger, as above), horseradish & tomato vinaigrette.
Deep fried langoustine served on ceramic dish, Frantzen
Deep Fried Langoustine, crispy (koshihikari) rice, dried green onions, emulsion of clarified butter infused with ginger. The bowl on the top left was for rinsing your fingers at the end.
Baked Wild Turbot served in a glass dish, Frantzen
Baked Wild Turbot, black trumpet mushroom, sprouted walnut, homemade butter with blond miso & vin jaune.
Chawanmushi, Frantzen 'Reserve Caviar
Chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard dish), Frantzén Reserve Caviar & broth made from Swedish pork aged for 60 days.
King Crab Grilled Over Birch Embers in red bowl with chopsticks, Frantzen
King Crab Grilled Over Birch Embers, ‘hot sauce’, sea urchin, finger lime & chrysanthemum.
Woman with pestle & mortar, preparing the herbs for the Bitter & Pickled Greens, Frantzen
Pounding the herbs for the Bitter & Pickled Greens – a classic Frantzén dish.
Bitter & Picked Greens 'homage satio tempestas', crunchy fish scales, Frantzen
Bitter & Picked Greens ‘homage satio tempestas’, crunchy fish scales, warm infusion, whipped buttermilk & mortared herbs.
Preparing the French Toast, Frantzen
Placing freshly grated truffles on the French Toast (Grand Tradition 2008), with vacca rossa Parmesan cheese (the original breed of cow whose milk was used for Parmesan) & 100-year-old vinegar.

Then on to the meat…

Pouring from a carafe, tomato, cherry & Arabica bean juice, Frantzen
Here, I had my second glass of fruit juice, suggested by the sommelier – a Tomato, Cherry & Arabica Bean juice, made to reflect a Côte-Rôtie from the Northern Rhône valley, a Syrah with some Viognier, and perfect with the fallow deer.
White plate with roasted fallow deer.
Spice Roasted Fallow Deer, blood orange, foie gras butter & jus rôti with 2 kinds of pepper.
Tea of Grilled Quail & fermented mushrooms, red seaweed with silken tofu.
Tea of Grilled Quail & fermented mushrooms, red seaweed with silken tofu. Also served was a little saucepan of gravy, six-month aged butter (divine) and Parker House bread, inspired by the Parker House rolls invented at the Parker House Hotel in Boston in the 1870s, apparently by a chef who, in his anger, threw a lump of dough, which then dented. It’s like brioche.

And finally the dessert…

Bowl of Salt Baked Chewy Beetroot, whipped liquorice, griottes cherries & aged violet vinegar.
Salt Baked Chewy Beetroot, whipped liquorice, griottes cherries & aged violet vinegar. Swedes love liquorice. I don’t, but I loved this not-too-sweet dessert.

Retiring to the Living Room

We returned to the Living Room for some more delights and a few surprises..

Caramel with foie gras, Frantzen
Creme caramel with foie gras, candied peanuts, red sorrel reduction, Pedro Ximénez, sugar & verjus (juice of unripe grapes).
Frantzen
Buckthorn sorbet with chilli, Szechuan pepper, Espelette pepper, chilli oil & Italian meringue. Served with a non-alcoholic Moscato d’Asti made from elderflower.
Melon with pepper & gold, Frantzen
Charentais Melon, salt candied pine nuts (with a touch of gold) & Espelette pepper.
Tea trolley, Frantzen
The tea trolley: I had a fresh lemon verbena with a touch of mint tea.
Close-up of sweet trolley, Frantzen
The sweet trolley … 3 flavours of macarons: 1. Strawberry Marmalade, Rose & Pink Peppercorn. 2. Miso, Hoshigaki & Pistachio. 3. Saffron, Date & Cinnamon. 3 flavours of chocolate: 1. 64% chocolate – Blood & Lingonberry. 2. 45% – Caramelised Hazelnut & Cep. 3. 32% – Tarragon & Grapefruit. I also had a Green Apple, Camomile & Lemon Verbena Crystallised Fruit, and took home to share with my son the Fermented Garlic Fudge & Brown Cheese Fudge.
Cardamon bun on glass plate, Frantzen
Freshly baked cardamom bun made with brown sugar & beurre noisette – I ate it all! This bun was good enough that you could eat it as the 20th item on the menu.

 

Touches that mattered at Frantzén

  • The ‘global‘ team in the kitchen.  Executive chef Marcus Jernmark joined from New York’s 3 Michelin-starred Swedish restaurant, Aquavit. While Björn himself has worked at the likes of Chez Nico and Pied à Terre in London, and L’Arpège in Paris.
  • The atmosphere of ‘casual elegance‘ meant that I could just be my (respectful and appreciative) self, wearing the same shoes that I had worn in the snow all day.
  • The music is selected by Björn: Carlos Santana, Raphael Saadiq, Carole KingJames Taylor… Wow, I hadn’t heard these for a while, and they were perfect for the experience.
  • My neighbours at the bar…  two very pleasant, elegant sisters from Stockholm, both with short blond hair and black, thick-rimmed glasses. They were celebrating a birthday. We didn’t talk much as we were all too focussed on the experience. Towards the end we struck up a conversation – a nice finale to accompany the Salt Baked Chewy Beetroot. 
  • The beautifully hand-written bill, or check as the Swedes call it, using the American English.

This was not only about eating at Frantzén. This was also about living a five-hour experience of the senses. And it was fun – a lot of fun.

In the same way that I will never forget my lunch at Central Restaurant in Lima, I will never forget my evening at Restaurant Frantzén.  I want to be back… just like in the lyrics of ACDC’s Back in Black.

Horizontal shot of entrance door to Frantzén, on the far left, at No 26, Klara Norra kyrkogata, Stockholm
The entrance at Klara Norra kyrkogata, No 26.
Entrance to Frantzén, on the far left, at No 26, Klara Norra kyrkogata, Stockholm
Frantzén on the left, with the Church of Santa Clara at the end of the street.

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